2 nine. three i used to be unnerved through this reversal of fortune. I felt happier in Germany while it was once simply Germany that was once darkish. And as issues had became upbeat there, I felt even more by myself at evening. It used to be additionally a mistake to return whilst 3 of my closest associates in Berlin have been gone—oddly adequate, for various purposes, all of them occurred to be in the US. yet this was once the single time—April 19 to 29, 2009—that i may break out from paintings. I needed to cross someplace, correct? And if I’m going to be by myself, I’d quite do it in Berlin than the other position on this planet. This time, I stayed on the resort Kastanienhof, the place Mrs. M. was once so style. due to her, i stopped up marginally happier than Christopher Isherwood in so long to Berlin. i presumed of my legislations associate emeritus Leon Despres, who might die at age one hundred and one simply as I got here again from this journey. the 1st time I went to Berlin, I went into Len’s place of work and requested: “Have you ever been there? ” “Sure. ” “Really—when have been you there? ” “Oh . . . 1926. ” “Yikes: 1926? You went, like, in Weimar! ” “Oh definite. ” He and his acquaintances went. He informed me how demoralized he and the opposite young ones have been while Coolidge had received in 1924. “So, Len, what was once it like, I suggest, Berlin? ” He paused. “It used to be the 1st time i used to be in a homosexual nightclub. ” convinced, he had really been in Weimar. yet he stated it took him 1 / 4 of an hour earlier than it happened to him the place he used to be. yet my different nice mentor, Sam Beer, had died at age ninety-seven quite a few weeks earlier than Len did. He had long gone to Berlin on a mountaineering journey many years after Len’s visit—in 1932. It was once everywhere. The Nazis have been now goose-stepping. The package Kat membership had close. For Len, it was once a lark. For Sam, it used to be darkish. For me, notwithstanding, it’s only a position that will get happier on each journey. Even within the Krise, it’s tough to assert, while I stroll round right here, that Germany is darkish. I nonetheless take note while all i may locate used to be a beat-up wannabe of a Mister Softee truck. Now, twelve years later, simply inside a block or so of the lodge Kastanienhof, the place I’m staying, i will be able to count number at the least ten cafés. however the highway scene is deceptive, simply because there are much more cafés within the courtyards hidden off the road. Berlin’s now not a movable yet an unmovable banquet. It’s bought a self assurance no longer even the Krise can crack. “But what’s the root of the economic climate? ” There isn’t any, no longer within the German experience. There’s no undefined. however the funds retains pouring in. they've got political capital the following, so it’s like Washington. And the children are right here simply because it’s so hip, so it’s like Berkeley or Portland, too. for this reason, the foundation of the complete economic climate is simply striking out. Prenzlauer Berg and Kreuzberg are full of little ones, youngsters, children, spending their mom and dad’ cash. Can there be any international capital so thoroughly supported via funds from mum and dad? i attempt to reflect on stodgy German mom and dad, blowing all this funds on events in Berlin. As my American buddy Leo says, “Germans take out coverage on every thing. They take out assurance on their home windows. ” but the children come to Berlin, the place they could holiday the entire principles.